This allows the plant to focus its energy on root formation rather than flowering. Do minimal pruning the first few years after transplanting. The more leaves on the plant the more energy produced to help develop the new root system. Just remove damaged, dead and crossing branches the first few years.
Then prune in spring after flowering and only as needed to maintain a strong framework and the desired size. Learn More. Spread a tarp or piece of burlap on the ground next to the camellia. Lift the plant from the ground with the help of others if the plant is too heavy to lift on your own.
Place the camellia's root ball in the center of the tarp or burlap. Wrap the material up and around the root ball. Tie the edges of the material around the camellia's stem with string. Lift the plant into a wheelbarrow and move it to the new planting site. While you work, place the camellia in the shade to reduce moisture loss. Dig a hole in the planting site with a shovel.
Make the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the camellia's root ball. Position the hole 10 to 20 feet away from other plants, objects and buildings to accommodate the mature size of the plant.
Build up a cone-shaped mound of soil in the center of the bottom of the hole, making it one-fourth as tall as the hole's depth. Cut the strings and unwrap the material from around the plant's root ball.
Cut off any dead, mushy or broken roots with a pair of pruning shears. Set the camellia in the center of the hole, spreading its roots out over the cone of soil.
Face the branch containing the cloth strip toward the north. Add or remove soil as needed to position the top of the root ball 1 to 2 inches higher than the surrounding soil.
Backfill one-half of the hole with soil, tamping it down around the roots. Fill the hole with water from a garden hose. One tree stands over 10 ft tall. Yikes, One is HUge and since today is Father's day, I don't know if we can get them in the ground, WE stood them up and watered them last night..
We thought of selling, but then if they didn't make it I would feel bad. Anyways Good luck with yours and If someone is going to do this by hand, I think heavy equipment is the way to go. The guys from moving the trees are beat. I don't know if this is possible in your situation The blade just scoops the plant out of the ground and transports it to and drops it in the properly prepared site.
You might want to suggest this approach to your landscaper. Root pruning now is a good idea. They must be kept watered. They should be watered heavily two days before moving. Also, some other suggestions. Prune keeping the shape of the shrub in mind. Removing the buds will reduce stress on the plants as they adjust to their new home.
In situations such as this I like to dust a little Rootone on any exposed cut roots during the planting process. It is a bit of extra insurance and helps the roots to regrow. Hopefully you can wait until the end of September before moving them. Good luck! How about a giant tree spade? We had our camellias moved this way during the fall and they never missed a beat. Of course, ours weren't as large as yours, but I'd get out the telephone book and see if I could find someone with a giant tree spade to move them.
Foolproof Houseplants? Replace fence with bushes? You should certainly root prune them NOW. And plan your move no sooner than the middle of September. Have the holes ready for them so that they can be moved and placed quickly. Make sure that the new hole has also been well watered. Do not place them any lower in the ground than they have been used to.
I doubt that you will be able to save all four, but maybe it's possible. That would be wonderful! My thought is that unless they are unusual specimens, or have some sentimental value, that you would be better off spending the same amount of money on the largest nursery grown ones you can find. Maybe even more than four. They would soon be as big and healthy as the ones you move.
It's not the sort of thing that you could do yourself. PeaBee4, I did look into purchasing camellias from nurserys and was told by three different stores that the largest camellias they had were 5 gallon specimens because camellias were so difficult to transplant if they were any larger.
The landscaper strongly discouraged me from having any big equipment used to move the plants because he said the risk would be too great of damage to the root balls. All of these plants are coming from the yard of a friend who sold her 's house and the buyer is going to knock it down and build an apartment complex. So all of the plants have to go. We are building a new house and naturally have bare ground right around the new structure. Being able to get all of these old mature plants is a wonderful opportunity for us.
I'm not sure if the plants really could be moved by heavy equipment or if the landscaper is correct to only do it by hand. So I'm counting on your collective wisdom to keep these plants alive. They are beautiful trees and would look lovely around our new home but I really am not educated on their needs or behavior.
Your advise is very welcome! I would ask the opinion of another landscaper in your area because I had really good luck with using one of those big tree spades. We moved approx. They all survived perfectly.
None of them were as large as 12 feet. Rather, they were all around feet in height. I also think that the cost to you may be cheaper if a tree spade is used. I guess it depends on how far away from your property the Camellias are located.
To me, the opportunity to bag those old Camellias is definitely worth the risk, no matter which way you choose to transplant them! In my case, the Camellias to be transplanted were already located on our property. Therefore, the process involved first digging holes with the tree spade where the Camellias would be moved to, then using the tree spade to dig up one camellia at a time and, with the tree spade, place the Camellia into the new hole.
The camellia never left the jaws of the tree spade during the process. Our landscape guys told us that, if the camellia was set down with a thud or sudden, abrubt kind of landing, that it might be irrevocably damaged.
Apparantly, such action could result in snapping the main roots or the trunk. A clearly or barely? Therefore, they wanted to directly move the camellia from its original location to the new hole. Also, I was told that the small, fibrous roots would die within a few minutes a few? More like less than 1 minute if exposed to air. Therefore, such roots needed to be watered immediately after digging them up. After transplanting, we had to baby them by watering them every day with a thorough, heavy drenching for several months.
I have had a chance to move some rather large camellias in the past. In fact I moved over a hundred back some years ago. You may be moving them a little early in the year but on the upper Pacific Coast, the weather might be in your favor. First, root prune the camellias at about 36 inches from the trunk.
If you can get wider, go as wide away from the trunk as possible. The Camellia has shallow roots and you will get most of them within the top foot of top soil. I would use an 18" sharp shooter. Go all around each plant about 18" deep. Second, prepare the place where you are going to plant the Camellias.
I would till up an area about 6 ft. After you till the soil to at least 18" to 24"deep, I would add about 3 or 4 cu. I would till this into the spot and also add some natural fertilizer. If you have cotton seed meal available, I would use that. I would put in about 10 lbs of cotton seed meal into the mixture of pine bark and sand. This will give you a real fluffy mound. It should be about 6 ft. Let it sit for as long as you can before moving the large plants.
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