It was called Progress Aero Works. This United Kingdom company produces hundreds of these engines a year and distributes them all over the world. Here's an article about that factory tour. A gas engine uses a spark plug to ignite the gasoline it uses as fuel.
These have a lower compression than a glow engine. They often look very similar but use different fuel and provide quite a different generally cleaner experience. Way back in , Josh and David bought a 38cc 'gasser' and got to grips with their new plane.
Here's the video. It should give you a good idea of the process needed to get one of these to fire up and into the air. When you get a new gas engine, you'll need to run it on the ground to get it to ware in. What is a Glow Engine? Two-Stroke vs. Four-Stroke Four-Stroke engines fire once with every two revolutions. How does a glow engine work? How do I care for a glow engine? Some of the best tips include: Keep your engine clean.
Keep your engine dry. Use an after-run engine oil. Use a brand-name fuel that contains at least the amount of oil recommended by the engine manufacturer. Use fuel with the proper percentage of nitromethane, as recommended by the engine manufacturer. What accessories will I need? Idle bars are there to prevent larger drops of fuel hitting the filament, and cooling it, but are really a throwback to older, less efficient glow engines.
Modern rc glow engines run better now, and idle bars are not as necessary as they once were. That said, some engines do still benefit from using a plug with a bar.
As with everything, trial and error is the way to go with idle bar glow plugs. For average rc flying with, say, a. This type represents your 'typical' glow plug for rc aircraft. But like most things in life, choosing the best plug for your engine can be a case of trial and error. For this reason it's always best to buy a selection of plugs, so if your engine isn't running well from one day to the next you can try a different one.
If your glow plug engine won't start, a broken or breaking down glow plug is an obvious cause and is the first thing to check and replace if necessary. And of course, a glow plug igniter that hasn't been charged and so can't heat the filament enough will also be a primary cause of the engine not starting!
The way to test a glow plug is to remove it from the cylinder head and place it in the igniter - if the filament immediately glows a healthy orange colour then the plug is healthy. Both types of carburetors work well, but most high-powered engines rely on the twin needle-valve carburetor for mixture adjustment.
It is important that your engine has a good, reliable idle before you commit your model airplane to flight. Care and Maintenance Proper engine care from the start will ensure that you get maximum power and longevity, so start caring for your engine the day you bring it home.
Most engines come with tools such as Allen or hex wrenches to tighten and loosen the screws that hold the engine together. Keep these in a safe place and if you lose them, be sure to replace them with the correct sizes. Glow engines need to be installed on your airplane with a strong, rugged mounting system.
Your propeller should be the recommended size and properly balanced. Notice the wire extension added to the main needle valve to keep fingers clear of the propeller. Remove the head and check the combustion chamber for the same. Squirt some 3-in-One Multi-Purpose Oil into the engine and turn the engine over. Lubricate the bearings as well as the connecting rod bushings. Check to make sure the ports in the sleeve match the ports cast or machined into the engine case.
Now reassemble the engine and tighten the screws in a crisscrossing pattern. Do not use threadlocker compound on the engine case or head screws. It is not required and will make future maintenance difficult.
You could strip the threads out of the holes. The engine is made mostly of aluminum and it is easy to damage threads. Always use the proper size wrench to tighten the propeller nut; never use vice grips or pliers. A 6-inch adjustable wrench is a good tool to keep in your field box.
After the last flight of the day, drain the fuel from the tank and run the engine dry. Squirt some after-run oil into the carburetor to coat the inside surfaces of the engine to prevent corrosion.
Alcohol-based fuels attract moisture and unprotected engine surfaces will corrode—especially the ball bearings. Oil is inexpensive insurance for a long engine life. Proper Balance Perhaps the most important thing to do before you run your engine and install it in your airplane is to use properly balanced propellers.
Good-quality propellers, for the most part, come out of the package well balanced, but to make sure your propeller is balanced, use a propeller balancer such as the one from Du-Bro Products. Using an unbalanced propeller increases vibration. Vibration can cause hardware to come loose and even cause control surface hinges to wear out and break during flight.
Do yourself a favor and be a stickler for smooth-running, properly balanced propellers. A Du-Bro propeller balancer is an excellent tool to add to your workshop. At first it may seem as though this is a lot of effort, but it is all part of properly running and taking care of your two-stroke model airplane engine. A good piece of advice is to find an modeler who has experience running glow engines and have him or her help you get started.
The task will be easier and more fun. With proper care and feeding, you can expect your glow engine to last a lifetime. Add new comment Print this article. My first servo equipped gear was Citizenship analog proportional.
I LOVE electric stuff. It blows the doors off glow in every way. I love my old engines but strictly as works of art. The only exception is my five cylinder O. Radial on my Quarter Scale Fleet Bipe. Pete the grouch. I have a mix of gas, glow, and electric. Here are the pro's and con's of each. Electric: Easy, if you plan to spend an hour or less at the field. I have a 36' motor home and 16' trailer to haul my toys in.
Li-po's are deadly, and demand the best care and storage. My batteries are kept in a metal ammo box, and stored in the oven for extra security. Batteries are expensive and can be a hassle when you get so many, that they must be numbered! Then you need to separate them as to charged, stored, discharged, and there are several reasons for different states when you have a large "fleet.
Who has not nursed a dying battery back to the airfield against the wind? Two things going for electric? Quiet, and reliable. Clean, it is NOT!!
You still have the same grass and mud to wipe away, which I find harder to clean off without the oil to keep it from sticking. I fly my models the same way I fly full scale, and that is to fly as if you expect an engine failure! Choose your site wisely, fly smart, and you won't have to explain how you ended up in the tree.
Gas, is the cheapest, though I find that I need to go bigger when replacing a nitro engine of the same displacement. Not nearly as messy as nitro though. To sum up, they each have their place and worth. I love all of my planes, but I can fly gas and glow all day, when the hundreds of dollars in batteries, are awaiting their turn on my six port charger, in just a couple of hours I am also in the habit of cleaning all my planes that have flown at the end of the day.
They even get treated to a coat of spray wax! The wax works great when flying in the rain! Submitted by Mike not verified on November 28, - pm Nitro engines I have been in this hobby for 38 years Lot of guys from several clubs I belong to hate electric aircraft!!! Submitted by Dick not verified on January 18, - pm reply Great comback to a out of touch flyer Submitted by Jon Bartoshek Because of the attitude that the I'm too busy or too impatient pilots of today have the hobby is on it's way of the model "T" ford.
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